Sanjay Thakur, in-Flight chef Etihad Airways e ideatore del progetto Lab15 am (nella versione inglese, la descrizione completa del percorso professionale dello chef)
1) Il processo creativo: come nasce il progetto dell’impiattamento di una ricetta? Il risultato formale dipende sempre e comunque dagli ingredienti e dalla ricetta, oppure si può dare priorità all’immagine del cibo? La forma segue il gusto o può accadere anche il contrario?
Prima di progettare un piatto ho sempre una vaga idea dell’esperienza che vorrei far vivere. L’immagine del piatto va di pari passo con il sapore, ma la forma migliora l’esperienza del gusto e degli altri sensi. Quando si parla del rapporto tra il prodotto iniziale, l’idea alla base di un piatto, e la forma finale, è molto importante assicurarsi che gli ingredienti siano in armonia tra loro: un piatto completo e ben riuscito è secondo me l’espressione di ogni singolo ingrediente al suo meglio. La creazione di un piatto è per me qualcosa di molto personale ma, allo stesso tempo, vorrei aderire alle autentiche radici culturali. Per me la cucina è la più grande e completa forma d’arte; i dipinti, la musica e il teatro colpiscono solo alcuni sensi, mentre la cucina coinvolge tutti i sensi in una esperienza multisensoriale.
2) L’Arte della composizione: colore e forma. L’uso di questi elementi viene insegnato nelle scuole di cucina? Come si apprende questa tecnica/arte? Si può imparare? Come?
Le scuole di cucina non consentono ad un individuo di diventare uno chef completo perché non vanno in profondità sui temi relativo all’uso dei colori; tuttavia si hanno personalità e passione per la cucina, verrà naturale alla fine della preparazione mettere in pratica le proprie inclinazioni e competenze.
3) Quanto è importante l’Arte della composizione in un piatto?
E’ uno degli aspetti più importanti per valutare la nostra creatività compositiva che non può essere intesa come il posizionano casuale del cibo sul piatto. La composizione dovrebbe considerare l’armonia tra gli elementi e il piatto stesso.
4) Come avviene la scelta dei colori per quanto riguarda l’allestimento di un piatto?
Dipende dalla personalità dello chef che decide come rappresentare la sua creazione. Personalmente mi piacciono i colori vivaci per iniziare per poi passare a colori più intensi.
5) Una ricetta può nascere da un colore e/o da una forma?
Direi di sì, una ricetta può nascera da un colore.
Lo scorso anno ho ideato una ricetta ispirata dal colore nero di una texture vellutata carbonizzata su un piatto. E’ stato nel il momento in cui stavo per andare a letto, quando spensi la luce; i nostri vicini quel giorno avevano fatto il barbecue e non appena chiusi gli occhi fui ispirato da quel contesto e così pensai di creare un piatto con una proteina e quello era il giorno dell’agnello. Per renderlo più intenso ho deciso di usare il cioccolato fondente e dargli un sentore di affumicato. Decisi di cuocere l’agnello a bassa temperatura per 72 ore a 64 gradi per consentire al mio mix personale di spezie e alll’essenza di cioccolato fondente di insaporire la carne.
Questo piatto è accompagnato da due diverse consistenze: ho estratto i succhi dell’agnello dal sous vide e ho fatto una riduzione con un curry di spezie leggermente temperato con cioccolato fondente e con polvere di carbone per intensificare il gusto. La seconda componente di questo piatto è il Dal Makhni (una crema di lenticchie nere e fagioli rossi) che dà una consistenza molto cremosa al piatto seguita da un intenso sapore di agnello arricchito con cioccolato speziato.
Descriverei questo piatto come un boccone perfetto interamente ispirato dal colore nero; senza alcun dubbio veicolerà il ricordo perfetto del barbecue di quella giornata.
6) La conoscenza delle arti visive (pittura, fotografia, design…) può aiutare nell’ideare la composizione di un piatto?
Sicuramente. Un cuoco deve sapere non solo come cucinare, ma anche come vuole che il suo lavoro venga visivamente riconosciuto.
7) Ci sono ingredienti e/o piatti che l’hanno ispirata non tanto per i sapori ma per la composizione formale e per l’aspetto estetico?
La scelta di un ingrediente dipende più dal suo sapore che dal contributo visivo che può dare al piatto.
8) Ci sono stati maestri o figure di riferimento con cui è entrato in contatto diretto o che ha semplicemente osservato e studiato che hanno contribuito a cambiare il suo modo di pensare al cibo?
Sì, mio padre insegna da più di 25 anni e ho avuto la fortuna di imparare da lui. Grazie ai suoi insegnamenti ha cambiato il mio modo di pensare al cibo anche solo cercando di modernizzare le sue idee nei miei piatti.
9) Il contenitore (piatto) valorizza il contenuto (cibo)?
Sì, ma a patto che l’aspetto del piatto non comprometta l’esperienza sensoriale o nasconda la poco competenza dello chef.
10) Quanto è importante il contenitore usato per la presentazione?
E’ molto importante in quanto codifica i colori e la dimensione delle porzioni.
11) Come si sceglie la forma e il colore del contenitore?
Scelgo a seconda della stagione: mi piace esaltare la luminosità in estate, un po’ più sofisticato in primavera e maggiore intensità in inverno.
12) Secondo lei il contenitore influenza il gusto del cibo contenuto in esso?
Il piatto influenza il gusto, soprattutto se non permette di degustare insieme tutti gli ingredienti.
**English version**
Sanjay Thakur a very passionate chef from the Himalayas Himachal Pradesh (India) been cooking now for more than 11 years .Started my studies with Hotel management college Chandigarh CIHM which used to be named as FCI where the faculty of college helped me achieved my first successful step by completing my course by topping the chart in Cookery practicals which gave me confidence to join as STEP trainee with Oberoi group of hotels which is regarded one of the best programs in India due to better opportunity for further studies I moved to Melbourne Australia to Pursue Hospitality management with Holmes colleges alongside studies.
I was fortunate enough to kick start my journey in Melbourne with Langham hotel one of the finest properties in heart of Melbourne after an year time I moved on with an event venues which helped me grow in different sectors for which I worked through out the year for different seasonal work which includes Melbourne cup , AFL league ,Australian open , international cricket tournaments and Caulfield race cup .Adapting different style of events with serving high end guests and celebrities I grew my skill pretty quick which helped me get a chance at Australia best hotel Crown casino where worked with banquet team for an year
Watching my dedication Chef d cuisine of Nobu gave me chance to work for Nobu which is one of the very high end restaurant in crown casino after working with great team of Nobu my target was to get knowledge of different cuisines and how they are roatated on an fine dinning level for which I joined few big names over the time period which comprises of Shannon Bennett at vue de monde George colambaris team at press club , chef Bellucci
In short span of time my aim was to adapt as many different kind of cuisines I can as I was very much determined to learn things quick and put 200 percent of my devotion to it working with crown I had opportunity to work with world biggest names for exclusive events including chef Gordon Ramsay , Nobu , Atul Kochhar , Morimotto , David Burke Phillip mouchel And list goes on Countless hours and hard work was well paid off
During my work at Etihad stadium Melbourne I came to knew about inflight chef profession so I was tempted to know about it and my temptation bought me to Abu Dhabi where my work inspired lot of people around the 2014 have been a great year where I got selected from India to represent in Bocuse d’or Asia pacific which is regarded as the biggest title in culinary world and dream for many passionate chefs 2014
I was also awarded as culinary champion for Etihad which motivated me to excel in what I am good at 2015 was another year where I was fortunate enough to represent Middle East and Etihad in San Pelligrino young chef held at Cape Town where I finished as second best in Middle East 2016 was an icing on cake where I got selected second time to represent India in Bocuse d or which was an really great achievement for me as only Indian chef to represent twice in Bocuse d or so far my journey every year just been fantastic and being member of IFCA have just opened a lot of doors of opportunities for me.
1) The creative process: when planning and preparing food: what is the relationship between the raw materials, the combination of flavours, culture and the final form of the food? Does the formal outcome always depend on the ingredients and the recipe, or can you give priority to the presentation of the food? Does the form follows the taste or can even the opposite happen? Have you ever felt the need to give a new form, particularly innovative, to your dishes?
Before designing the dish I always keep a in mind a rough idea of the experience that I would like to give it on to the plate an image of the dish which goes hand in hand with the flavors, but it is important to note that it is always the form which gives an impact and enhances the experience of taste and senses and when we talk about the relationship between intial product and the idea behind a dish to final form is very crucial as we as chefs need to make sure that if the ingredients are resting in harmony on to the plate and complement each other rather than over powering the dish individually, then a complete dish for me is an experience of each individual ingredients at its best. Creating a dish is something very personal to me I do think it does needs improving with time but at the same time I would stick to authentic cultural roots for inspiration. For me cooking is as big a form of art on this planet as paintings, music, theater – which attracts one sense at a time – but cooking attracts people with all their senses whether it’s visual, edible, aromatic as wise experience is always multi sensory.
2) Art of composition: Colour and form. Is the use of colour and form taught in cookery schools? If not, how do you learn this technique/art? Can anyone learn it? How?
Cookery schools are a steps in making of an individual great chef but they don’t go in depth when it comes to colour or the uses of it. If an individual has the personality and passion to cook it will come naturally as in the end, cooking is all about being unique and putting your passions onto the plate. Learn by cooking as practice makes perfect.
3) How important is the art of composition in a plate?
It’s one of the most important steps as we should understand that just by putting random items on a plate isn’t about creating a dish. They should complement each other on the plate and for that, the art of composition plays an important role.
4) How is the choice of colours relevant with regards to plating?
It depends on the personality of the chef and how he would like to portray his work of art. I personally like to use bright colors to start with in the first few courses, and then get intense as the courses progress.
5) Can a recipe be borne by a colour and / or by a form?
I would say Yes, a recipe can be born by keeping in mind a color.
As 2016 I did one recipe inspired by color black showcasing feel of an velvety carbonized textures on a plate. It was just about time when I was about to hit for my bed I turned off light, our neighbors were having barbecue that day as soon as I get to close my eyes I got inspired with this whole environment so why not create an intense dish with an protein. That was the day for lamb as a protein I guess so it just came to my mind why not lamb rump. To make it more intense in nature I decided to use dark chocolate and give it smoky feel to it .
Writing that idea on to the paper I decided to slow cook lamb rump sous vide for 72 hours at 64 degree which helps to infuse it with my very own version of spice mix and essence of dark chocolate. This dish is accompanied with 2 more different texture extracted juices of lamb from Sous vide and lamb stock reduced down with spices created into a form of curry lightly tempered with dark chocolate at the finish and charcoal powder intensify the taste. Second component of this dish is Dal makhni ( rich creamy lentil-black lentil and kidney bean) which gives very creamy start to the dish followed by intense lamb infused with spiced chocolate.
I would describe as an perfect mouthful for one my courses which was entirely inspired by color black and would definitely take you on a memory lane of an perfect barbecue occasion
6) Can a knowledge and/or understanding of visual arts (painting, photography, design etc.) help in designing the composition of a plate?
It definitely does as a chef needs to know not just how to cook but visually how he wants visually his work to be known by the world.
7) Are there ingredients/dishes that have inspired you, not so much for their taste but for their formal composition and aesthetic?
Choosing an individual ingredient which inspires me does depend more on its taste aroma and what it can contribute to the dish.
8) Were there teachers or individuals who have inspired and helped you to change your way of thinking about food?
Yes, my dad has been teaching for more then 25 years and I was lucky enough to be taught by him. He changed the way I thought about food just by trying to modernize his thoughts into the plate.
9) Does the plate itself (or whatever other receptacle that is used to present the food) enhance the food that has been presented on it?
Yes it does but, on the other hand, the dish is not a multi sensory experience. For me a fancier plate can hide or compromise some other factor and I think it shows that a chef is not very confident in presenting the same dish on a plain round plate due to lack of creativity, skills or taste.
10) How important is the choice of plate used to present the food?
It’s as important as colour coding and portion size.
11) How do you choose the shape and colour of the plate?
I go according to the season keep it light in summer, a little bit sophisticated in spring, intense for winter.
12) In your opinion does the plate have an impact on the taste of the food presented on it and of the perception that one has of the food itself?
The plate does impact on the taste as if the plate is unable to bring the ingredients together of an dish it just might break the whole dish apart